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A veiled face of fashion walks down a Paris runway

"Hard femininity," was how Gareth Pugh described his show, inspired, he says, by the rawness of Latin American cockfighting.

Sure enough, black nappa kimono looks opened the collection swirling stiffly and authoritatively — with one model in a two-foot mourning veil.

However, the raw shock-factor — Pugh's signature — was short-lived for once. It soon gave way to a series of softer, elegant and more mature looks in sweeping vermilion, black fringing and pale dove gray.

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-- Associated Press